I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. Thanks for any help. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. I have driven car about 200 miles. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. It does this with the engine off. Capability Range: Advanced The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. Chris, My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. If This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. Thanks. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Any suggestions? Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Thank you very much. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to Capability Range: Moderate So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original Holley have given a new unit. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Thanks for the great question! Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Am I missing something. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. TPS 0. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. Interesting situation you have. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. I'll give the ". It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. Thanks for the info Chris. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. Let :-). Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. I'd really appreciate some help. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. Hello Chris. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. Hi. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. I will let you know what the results are. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. Capability Range: Professional I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? It's not necessary to drive it that way. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. That is not something I'd ignore. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. Hello. There is no real mystery here. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? Should I just disable idle timing control? MAP Sensor. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? It then started working normally again. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. any ideas? That is the first thing you must find. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. Save Share. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. Or, at least, it should. I keep doing that with the same result. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. One of them might be faulty. So the issue Im having is low idle. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. It will need to see it again and again. You could go either way.. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. I have not heard of this. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. Im thinking a faulty TPS. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. Hello Chris. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. If you use your handheld to go here: I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Try it! I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. Ok, so I'm stumped! Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. That is the IAC hold position. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. Um, no. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly.
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